glossary

a

A Line
Style line for apparel in which a dress fits at the shoulder or a skirt fits at the waist and, then, gradually flares out to a wider hemline, causing it to resemble the letter 'A'.
Appliqué
Cutting shapes from textile fabrics and attaching them to another fabric or garment in order to decorate the base material. The ornamental fabrics are most often sewn to the base fabric, but may also be attached with adhesive.
Argyle
Knitted or woven in a pattern of diamond-shaped figures of different colors.
Aviator Sunglasses
The classic is the Erik Estrada version as Francis "Ponch" Poncherello in CHiPs. Now there are slews of take-offs in everything from leather-coated wire to plastic frames from every designer.

b

Ballet Flats
Light, flat, hard-soled shoes resembling those worn by a ballet dancer.
Bespoke
A term employed in menswear in a variety of applications to mean an item custom-made to the buyer's specification of design, fabrication, lining, details, etc.
Bias Cut
The bias is the diagonal direction of a woven fabric. Unless woven from stretch yarns, fabrics stretch more in the bias direction than in the length or width. Designers can take advantage of this stretch by manipulating the fabric so that the bias areas fall in ways that cause the designs to fit the body more closely or drape into soft folds.
Boat Neck
A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders having the same depth in the front and back.
Bootie
You know that Britney Spears song, '...Not A Girl, Not Yet A Woman'? A bootie is not a shoe, not quite a boot. Get it?
Bootleg
A pant style that tapers to the knee and then flares out gently so as to accommodate the bulk of the boot.
Button-Down Collar
Designating a collar, as on a shirt, having points fastened by small buttons to the front of the garment.

c

Caftan
A full-length garment with elbow-length or long sleeves consisting of a loose, usually brightly colored waist-length or ankle-length tunic.
Camisole
A woman's underbodice with shoulder straps usually made of satin, silk or cotton.
Cap Sleeves
A small short sleeve that sits exactly on the shoulder or falling just on the arm.
Capri Pants
Popularized in the 1950's, Capri Pants (aka Peddle Pushers) hit below the knee, but well above the ankle and are named after the Mediterranean island of Capri. (Some dictate that Capris must go to mid-calf length, thus actually being a little longer than Peddle Pushers.)
Chalk Stripe
A stripe in a parallel formation in suiting fabric which is wider and more muted than a pinstripe.
Chambray
A smooth fabric of cotton made by weaving white or unbleached threads across a colored warp - used most commonly for shirts.
Chandelier Earrings
Long shoulder-dusting earrings incorporating diamonds, precious gems, crystals or beads lending them the look of chandeliers.
Chevron
The general shape of a 'V' or a triangular shape used in design.
Chiffon
A fine transparent or almost transparent plain-weave fabric of silk, nylon or rayon.
Chinoiserie
A style made popular in fashion during the eighteenth century by Europeans discovering Chinese imports and developed an intense interest in Chinese clothes, porcelain, tea, and other items. These items were known as chinoiserie. They soon began to incorporate Chinese techniques in their own European designs and soon printed cloth with Oriental scenes of pagodas, temples, and other Chinese-inspired objects and prints.  
Chukka Boots
A short, ankle-length boot having two or three pairs of eyelets. Also referred to as desert boots, they were originally designed to be worn in the desert by British troops and have become fashion staple for both man and women alike.
Circle Skirt
A skirt cut so that the hem of the skirt forms a circle without any gathers at the waist.
Color Blocking
Usually three or more distinctively different colors separated by shapes or geometric areas on a garment or accessory.
Corduroy
A durable usually cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales.
Corset
A slim fitting top, usually strapless with stiff boning inside as support and either laced up or with hooks as closures, sometimes used as a substitute for a blouse.
Costume Jewelry
Not made of genuine gems or precious metals. Pioneered in the 1920s by Coco Chanel, she showed imitation pearls, emeralds and rubies for daytime as copies of her own real jewels. Now, a mainstay of almost every store and designer.
Cowl Neck
A neckline with material falling loosely from shoulder to shoulder forming soft graceful folds hanging either in the front or back of the garment.
Cuff
A rigid bracelet with a gap in the material, usually on its reverse side. The opening lets one easily slip the bracelet over a wrist.

d

D’Orsay Shoe
Any shoe that has a closed heel and toe but which is cut down to the sole at the sides. It can be made with a heel of any type and any style of vamp (front). This style is one of several fashions named after the Count d'Orsay, a fashionable dandy living in Paris in the mid-1800s.
Décolleté
Referring to the area of the neckline and bosom when a garment is cut very low.
Demi Bra
This style of bra has a half cup, and covers the nipple and approximately half the breast.
Dolman Sleeve
A sleeve that is very wide at the armhole and tight at the wrist often cut in one piece with the bodice.
Draping
The art of creating a dress, top or skirt simply by arranging fabric around a body using the natural fall of the fabric and techniques like pleating and gathering. A form of draping would be the sari.
Driving Shoes
Driving shoes (aka Drivers) are designed specifically for driving and not walking as they have no soles, but, instead, rubber grommets designed for gripping automobile accelerators. Designed for comfort, they are also a great alternative for wearing at home and on an airplane. They are made in every material and color imaginable, for both women and men.

e

Embellishment
Something that embellishes any clothing, shoes or accessories and is ornamental. It is typically sewn on or attached upon any given material.
Emboidery
Embroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework in which designs and pictures are created by stitching strands of some material on to a layer of another material. Most embroidery uses thread or wool stitched onto a woven fabric. Embroidery very often takes on a boho or ethnic vibe.
Empire Waist
Location of the waistline just under the bust line. The name of this style comes from the high-waisted styles popular during the reign of the French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte (1804-1814).
Epaulette
Any shoulder ornament, usually a button strap; often seen with braiding or other trim.

f

Fair Isle
A traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors and is named after Fair Isle, a tiny island north of Scotland.
Field Coat
Originally designed for hunting and is typically constructed from cotton canvas and has underarm gussets for ease of movement as well as multiple pockets. Stylized versions are now available from a host of designers.
Fishtail Skirt
Tightly fitted around the hip and flaring out from the knee to the ground - also referred to as a mermaid skirt. It is called a fishtail skirt because it resembles the shape of a fish's tail.
Form Fitting
This style closely skims the body and emphasizes the natural curves. (aka Body Hugging)
Funnel Neck
A type of garment neckline that is wide and high, resembling a funnel, attached to the body of the garment, rather than sewn at the neckline.

g

Gabardine
A sturdy, durable, lightweight twill fabric of cotton, wool or rayon.
Gingham
A cotton fabric, usually woven of two colored yarns in a checked design.
Gladiator Sandals
A flat sandal that has several straps across the top holding the sole to the foot and a strap around the ankle.

h

Halter
A sleeveless top whose cut leaves the shoulders bare and is quite often backless.
Harem Pants
Full trousers pleated or gathered into a band at the ankle. Originally worn by Turkish women, then as eveningwear in early 20th century, they gained wide popularity in the 1930s. The style is all about luxe comfort.
Haute Couture
High fashion, hand made, staggeringly expensive one of a kind pieces that often require three or more fittings. To qualify as an haute couture piece a garment must follow several strict guidelines. For a label or business to qualify as a couture house it must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris.
Henley
A collarless pullover shirt, characterized by a 4-6" long slit beneath the round neckline, usually having 2-5 buttons.
Houndstooth
The checks that make up houndstooth are broken/uneven and pointy-shaped (like a hound’s tooth). The houndstooth pattern is traditionally black and white but can be found in a variety of colors and on a variety of garments and accessories nowadays.

i

Ikat
A handicraft where the yarns are carefully tie-dyed in a particular design before they are woven together.
Intarsia
A knitted design resembling a mosaic that is visible on both sides of a fabric.

j

Jersey
A fabric which can be made of made of wool, silk, cotton, rayon or a synthetic. It's stretch properties as well as good draping and crease-resistant qualities makes it very comfortable to wear and an ideal choice for travel and packing.
Jodhpurs
Riding pants, with loose fabric at the hip and fitting tightly from knee to ankle.

k

Kangaroo Pocket
A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two open ends.
Kimono Sleeve (aka Pagoda Sleeve)
A sleeve that is narrow at the top where it fits the upper arm closely, then gradually flares out to become wide at the bottom. The shape is similar to a funnel, and so this sleeve style may also be called a funnel sleeve.
Kitten Heels
A short heel about 1 ½ - 2 inches high with a distinctive curve. Considered very feminine and pretty.

l

Lapel
An extension of the collar in a jacket that folds out. The width and length of the lapel varies widely from season to season and is often a defining aspect of menswear trends.
Laser-Cut
A modern technique for cutting openwork patterns into fabric or leather using laser-equipped computerized equipment.
Lining
The inner layer used to cover the inside of garment. Usually of a soft, smooth fabric - the right lining can add give an outfit a more flattering fall.
Little Black Dress (LBD)
A black cocktail dress that has become a fashion staple after being first introduced by Coco Chanel. Reinvented every season.

m

Madras
Madras is a pattern that originated in a city in East India, formerly named Madras. This summer fabric style is distinguished by a pattern of colorful checks and stripes. The stripes of a madras check or plaid consist of different colored stripes that cross each other to form uneven checks. Madras has become a popular “preppy” pattern for shorts, casual shirts and even neck ties.
Maillot
(Pronounced ‘my-yo‘). A one-piece swimsuit with sewn-on straps and scoop, squared or sweetheart neckline; designed to flatter most figure-types.
Mandarin Collar
A short band stand up collar adapted from the traditional Chinese collar.
Marabou
The feathers of the Marabou Stork, which are native to Africa, are harvested from their wing covers and tails (the birds are raised in domestic flocks and not harmed) and are typically used to accent jackets, dresses and shoes.
Mary Janes
A shoe styled after school children's shoes. Traditionally with a rounded toe and a flat heel, the chief characteristic of a Mary Jane is the strap over the top of the foot. Today Mary Janes can be of any heel height.
Maxi Dress
A Maxi Dress is a floor- or ankle-length informal dress, formfitting at the top and loose flowing at the bottom, cut to flow over the body. They are usually made out of cotton.
Minaudière
A handbag for evening that is made of metal pieces that are often highly ornamented with jewels, worked metal, or other decorative techniques. These bags vary in shape, from square, oval or oblong or based on whimsical designs of animals, plants or monuments, often having a short chain by which to carry them.
Minimalism
A trend in design where clothes are stripped down to their most basic elements. A look characterized by simple forms and basic color schemes. A minimalist look.
Miniskirt
A 'mini' is a very short skirt or dress falling mid-thigh or higher.
Moleskin
A heavy durable cotton fabric with a short thick velvety nap on one side.
Motorcycle Jacket
Based on a traditional black leather men's version from the 1950's, you will now find them in a variety of fabrications and color options as well as various lengths, from long to cropped.
Mules
A shoe without any back strap.

n

Necklines
The most popular necklines are the V-neck, square neck, round neck, boat neck, scooped neck, halter and keyhole.
Notched Neck
A round neckline having a small triangular cutout in the front center.

o

Ombré
A French word meaning 'shaded' describing the appearance of related colors shading from light to dark or vice versa within one garment. Ombré continues to be a popular all-season pattern for accessories and clothing.
Organza
A stiff see-through fabric, usually silk, rayon, or nylon.

p

Pagoda Sleeve (aka Kimono Sleeve)
A sleeve that is narrow at the top where it fits the upper arm closely, then gradually flares out to become wide at the bottom. The shape is similar to a funnel, and so this sleeve style may also be called a funnel sleeve.
Paillette
Small glittering disk, similar to a sequin, sewn together with others on fabric to create a fishscale effect.
Panama Hat
A natural-colored, hand-plaited hat (which is then often dyed) made from leaves of the jipijapa plant of South and Central America.
Pareo
A Tahitian word for a wraparound skirt. The term applies to any piece of cloth worn wrapped around the body, worn by males or females.
Patent Leather
A leather with a hard smooth glossy coated surface.
Peacoat
Originally, a heavy woolen double-breasted jacket originally worn by sailors. It has now been adapted in every color and fabric for both men and women.
Peak Lapel
The peak lapel has two points of fabric that run on both sides of the jacket and project upwards. The fabric narrows even further upon the point nearing the lapel and the collar, and slowly disappears into the jacket. The peak lapel forms a broad "V-shaped" opening on the jacket.
Peasant Top
A romantic style top, often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material.
Peep Toe
A shoe which has an opening at the end that shows part of the toes, but not the whole toe line.
Peplum
A flared section in the construction of a jacket or blouse that extends a short distance below the waistline. Peplums may be sewn to the bodice, cut in one with the bodice, or may be a separate section attached to a belt.
Pinstipe
Pinstripes are thin, vertical stripes that are narrower than pencil or chalk stripes. Pin stripes are usually one to two yarns thick and are sometimes broken. The widths between the stripes vary but are always wider apart than hairline stripes.
Pintucks
A pleat that has been stitched down along the length of a very narrow width (no more that a few millimeters). A popular technique to create added texture.
Platform Heels
Shoes with thick soles made of wood, cork, plastic or any other materials creating the illusion of height without the discomfort of regular heels.
Pleats
A technique to create volume in a garment by folding fabric and stitching it down at the top of the fold. Types of pleats include knife pleats (all folds facing one direction), box pleats (two flat folds in opposite directions with edges of the fabric meeting underneath), and inverted pleats (similar to a box pleat but with the fullness on the outer side).
Point Collar
This collar point suitably should have a width of about 2 ½ - 3 inches and this would generally fit most average weight man. It also has a much smaller gap between the collar points and so can be worn without a tie as well.
Poncho
A blanketlike cloak having a hole in the center for the head.
Poplin
A plain strong cotton fabric with very fine ribbing used in a variety of clothes such as dresses, skirts, pants, shirts, jackets and ties for both men and women.
Prince Of Wales
A woolen fabric with a woven twill design of small and large checks, originally created for men's suits but now also used in womenswear.

r

Racerback
An article of clothing with a T-shaped back behind the shoulder blades to allow ease of movement.
Raglan Sleeve
A commonly-used sleeve that extends in one piece to the neckline of the garment with slanted seams from the armhole to the neck.
Romper
A one-piece garment with the lower part shaped like bloomers.
Ruching
Creating gathers in cloth by pulling it between two or more lines of stitching. Also known as shirring.

s

Sarong
A garment consisting of a length of printed cloth wrapped about the waist that is worn by men or women. Originated from Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Pacific islands.
Seersucker
A light thin fabric, generally cotton or rayon, with a crinkled surface and a usually striped pattern.
Sequin
A small piece of shiny, often colored metal foil or plastic, usually round, used to decorate a garment.
Shantung
A heavy fabric with a rough knubby surface, made of spun wild silk.
Shawl Collar
A one-piece collar that is turned down to form an elegant, continuous line around the back of the neck to the front of a garment.
Shift
A straight narrow dress fitted to the body with vertical darts or a set-in waist.
Shirring (Aka Ruching)
A gathering made in cloth by drawing the material up on parallel rows of short running stitches.
Shirt Dress
A shirt dress borrows details from a man's shirt and is frequently made up in crisp fabrics like cotton. It has a looser fit with waist definition given by a belt. Button fronts and forgiving fit make this a flattering look for most bodies.
Shrug
A woman's cropped, cardigan-like garment with short or long sleeves that is typically knitted, a shrug looks like it only consists of a back and sleeves. It is a cousin to a bolero jacket.
Skort
Shorts that have a flap in the front so as to resemble a skirt.
Slingback
A shoe with a strap that wraps around the back of the heel.
Spaghetti Strap
An ultra-thin strap generally used in tops and dresses.
Spectators
Spectator shoes are shoes with two or more distinct materials or colors, pinked edging and perforated details.
Stacked Heels
A high heel made of different layers of wood or material simulating wood.
Straight Legged
Pants that have been cut straight from the hip to the floor, i.e. of equal width throughout. When pants are cut extra wide, they are popularly known as palazzo pants.

t

Tank Top
Any short sleeveless top with a loose armhole.
Tankini
A two-piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top. A tankini provides the coverage of a maillot and the freedom of a bikini.
Tartan Plaid
Tartan plaid is the pattern that is most often found on Scottish kilts. This plaid consists of vertical and horizontal or diagonal stripes that cross each other to form different sized checks. This pattern is often done in a twill-weave and should only be used as a casual shirt.
Tattersall
A check pattern that consists of thin, regularly spaced stripes in alternating colors that are repeated both horizontally and vertically. The stripes that create the tatersall pattern often come in two different colors and are usually darker than the background color.
Tie-Dye
Tie-dye is a method of dyeing clothing originally popularized by members of the hippie subculture. Clothes are tied, either with string or rubber bands into some sort of pattern. The clothes are then dyed by submerging them or by squirting dye solution onto them. Where the fabric is tied, some areas do not absorb the dye which forms a pattern.
Tranny Shoe
A slang term that describes shoes that over-the-top transvestites or female impersonators wear that has been embraced by top fashion houses for 'real' women - usually impossibly high and very dramatic.
Tube Top
Any short top that does not have shoulders or sleeves.
Tulle
A stiffened silk net. The term can also include synthetic nets.
Tunic
A straight cut dress without darts.
Tweed
A rough, knubby, woolen fabric with subdued and interesting color effects. Popular in international collections have featured tweed in the past season.

u

Ultrasuede
Registered trademark of Springs Mills, Inc. for luxury suede-like fabric.

v

Vintage
A trend in fashion now that references designs and other details from bygone eras from the 1920s to the 1990s.

w

Waist Belt
A belt that is designed to be worn around and to highlight the waist.
Wedge Heel
Wedge soles literally form a triangular wedge between the foot and the ground. They provide height and lift under all parts of the foot, not just at the heel.
Whipstitch
To sew with overcast stitches, as in finishing a fabric edge or binding two pieces of fabric together.
Windowpane
A design that looks like a windowpane, with narrow bands of one color forming an over-check that encloses rectangles of another ground color.
Wingtips
Wingtip shoes feature a toe cap that comes to a point in the center, and spreads out toward the sides of the shoes, in a shape that somewhat resembles wings. This part of the shoe is sometimes perforated with small holes around the edges.
Wrap
Both wraparound tops and wraparound skirts involve overlapping fabric around the waist, either in the front or the back to create a fitted waistline.

y

Yoke
The fitted top of a garment across the shoulders in front or back, usually a separate piece seamed across the front and back; sometimes lined.